EGG EATING
Laying hens are naturally inclined to eat broken eggs – this is not caused by a feed deficiency. At times this trait develops into a vice whereby a hen pecks at eggs to break and eat them.
Once this habit starts it is difficult to break and will of course result in serious egg losses and may also lead to cannibalism. It is best to prevent egg eating from starting with good management, such as providing plenty of litter in nests, prompt removal of broken eggs and collecting eggs twice a day.
FEATHER PICKING AND CANNIBALISM
This vice usually results from overcrowding, lack of drinking and feeding space, idleness and poor conditions. Any birds that have been vent picked, traumatised by other hens or are showing signs of poor health and debilitation should be immediately culled in a humane manner.
Seek advice from your Veterinarian or State Department of Agriculture or Primary Industries regarding appropriate culling methods. If it is neglected it may develop into the nastier vice of cannibalism. Again, once it starts it is very difficult to stop.
The primary task is to keep the birds occupied. Assuming your hens are well housed with adequate space, this can be done by scattering straw or feed over the ground for them to scratch around.
BROODINESS
This is a natural, maternal instinct that can cause decreased egg production. Broody hens occupy the nest for extended periods of time, thereby preventing other hens
from laying. Even during the night broody hens tend to remain on the nest rather than roosting with other hens on the perch.
Other signs of broodiness include the ruffling of feathers, aggressiveness when approached on the nest and making a characteristic clucking noise. Broody hens will continue to lay a clutch of 4 to 6 eggs before they stop laying. It is important to act prior to the hen laying this clutch of eggs to avoid the bird going out of lay.
Broody hens should be removed to separate wire coops. There, provided with sufficient feed and water, they should be cured within 3-4 days after which they can be returned to the flock. Keep a close watch for the next few days, as they may lapse back to being broody. Repeat the above isolation treatment if they do.
POULTRY EQUIPMENT
A range of home poultry equipment is available from most produce stores. Most stores have a range of metal feeders to suit all types and numbers of birds kept. These range from small round feeders suitable for an aviculturalist to large 15kg feeders for poultry. Plastic drinkers reduce water contamination and provide visible water levels.
For further information on poultry equipment, contact your local produce store and discuss your particular requirements.
FEEDING LAYING HENS
Layers are omnivores, meaning it is in their nature to consume meat and vegetable material. In the wild this would consist of insects, worms, carcasses, seeds and other plant material. Layers will not survive on vegetable scraps alone. To achieve good health, well-being and egg production, the laying hen must receive a balanced diet.
1. Water
Ample, cool, clean water should always be available as this is essential for maximum egg production. If a hen has to do without water for even a short time, her comb may turn a blue-black colour and she will cease to lay. In hot weather, a lack of water for even a few hours can be fatal. Although actual consumption depends on the size of bird, level of egg production, season and type of drinker used, the following may be used as a guide for birds of various ages:
DAILY WATER CONSUMPTION GUIDE
Age (Weeks) Litres (10 Birds)
1 0.2
5 1.0
15 2.3
20 2.6
25 4.0
30 5.0
Saline water can be a cause of poor shell quality and wet manure. To check the suitability of your water supply, contact your State Department of Agriculture or Primary Industries or a recognised analytical laboratory.
Note: In extremely hot weather a good rule to follow is to provide at least three times the usual water allowance.
2. Protein and energy
Birds require an appropriate balance of protein and energy to support growth, egg production, daily functions and overall health. Barastoc laying hen feeds (see product guide) have been formulated to ensure that the requirements for these nutrients are met.
3. Vitamins and minerals
Barastoc laying hen feeds (see product guide) are supplemented with vitamins and minerals to support egg production, essential body functions and resistance to disease.
4. Coarse sources of calcium
Calcium is required for strong bones and good quality eggshells. Barastoc laying hen feeds (see product guide) contain sufficient calcium to satisfy your hens’ needs. Hens generally lay down egg shells during the night. It can be beneficial to also offer coarse sources of calcium such as shell grit or limestone chips. These provide a sustained slow-release of calcium and allow for the selection of extra calcium by hens.
5. Hard grit
Hens use small insoluble stones to grind feed in the gizzard. They require grit when being fed coarse grains such as wheat or other feedstuffs where grinding is necessary for digestion. Grit is generally described as small insoluble stones of approximately 3mm (1/8”) in diameter.
6. Green feed and scraps
Green feeds and scraps are a source of vitamins and can contribute carotenoid pigments for yolk colour. Hens enjoy grazing and picking over scraps and whilst these can contribute to their diet, they can also be very low in nutrients. If too much poor quality forage or scraps are fed too often in place of a balanced ration, egg production and hen health can suffer.
Care should be taken to avoid access to mouldy or “off ” feed such as old damp stored grain or mouldy bread. These may contain toxins that can affect the health and performance of laying hens. The practice of wetting pellets is unnecessary and potentially harmful. Milk should not be added to feedstuffs due to the risk of promoting bacterial growth.
DOES IT PAY TO KEEP YOUR OWN LAYING HENS?
When properly fed and cared for, hens in a home flock situation (commercial hybrids) can lay in excess of 20 dozen (240) eggs per year. During that time the laying hen will eat approximately 47kg of feed.
By calculating the annual cost of feed, housing, equipment, health care and replacement birds you can then establish how much it costs to produce your own eggs.
Obviously the pleasure of keeping hens cannot be measured in dollars and cents, particularly when it is a family activity. Most importantly, you can’t beat home-grown, fresh eggs!
MORE INFORMATION
Australian Egg Corporation Limited, www.aecl.org
Australian Government Department of Agriculture, Fisheries and Forestry,
www.affa.gov.au
Australian Veterinary Poultry Association, www.jcu.edu.au/school/bms/avpa/
“A Model Code of Practice for the Welfare of Animals, Domestic Poultry in Australia”.
Vaccines – Intervet Australia Pty Limited. Ph: 1800 033 461
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
The contribution of expertise by Dr. Peter Scott (Scolexia Animal & Avian Health Veterinary Consultancy) is greatly appreciated.
8th Edition – Barastoc Chook Book. Printed July 2010. Content may change between editions according to changes in products, legislation, and codes of practice. Contact Ridley Sales & Support on
1300 666 657 to ensure you have the most recent edition of the Barastoc Chook Book.