PETstock South Melbourne » Dog

Assistance Dogs Australia Break New Ground

Robert Siddle — Thu, 19 Apr 2012 09:00:46 +0000

Assistance Dogs Australia’s mummy dog, Brielle has had a litter of ten healthy and happy puppies as part of a WORLD FIRST BREEDING PROGRAM as they were born at a Correctional Centre and delivered by inmates (with the help of Dr Chris Brown). They are as cute as buttons! Keep an eye on our facebook and twitter pages to find out when they will be making an appearance on Bondi Vet.

In this issue Daisy from Brielle’s first litter tells you all about how her new brother’s and sister’s have been socialised and about their upcoming puppy testing and we ask you to sign up to one of the challenge events and raise funds and awareness for the Super Pups!

Our recipients face huge challenges everyday and they tackle them head on and without fear. It’s inspirational. By taking on your own challenge you can help them overcome theirs a little easier with an Assistance Dog by their side.

A new breed

Jail dogs with a job
Assistance Dogs Australia are proud to introduce our new litter born on the 17th February as part of a world first breeding program.

Assistance Dogs Australia’s mummy dog, Brielle had ten happy and healthy puppies within Emu Plains Correctional Centre delivered by inmates and aided by the Bondi Vet, Dr Chris Brown.

The new Super Pups and of course their mummy, Brielle are doing wonderfully thanks to the inmates and staff at Emu Plains Corrective Centre and Emu Plains Vet.

“The new breeding program is a fantastic expansion of our current Pups in Prison Program which is running in centres across the country,” said Assistance Dogs Australia’s Top Dog, Richard Lord. “The program assists inmates in their own rehabilitation and gives them a unique opportunity to give back to the community with dogs going on to help people with physical disabilities.”

This new breeding program is even more special because it will give inmates an opportunity to see the entire process – from birth to placement with someone in need. Plus it is the first time it has ever been done anywhere in the world! It means our puppies are being handled by experienced carers from day one and opens up lots of opportunities to breed dogs suited to the program.

Make sure you check out the amazing photos of the pups in the Daily Telegraph gallery.

So Your Dog- Toilets in the house

Robert Siddle — Sat, 14 Apr 2012 04:30:49 +0000

Having trouble with your dog toileting inappropriately? After ruling out any physical issues with your veterinarian, it’s important to get started as soon as possible teaching your dog where you would like them to toilet. Each time your dog has an accident in the house; it reinforces the behaviour so time is of the essence!

Why do dogs toilet in the house or in inappropriate areas?

There are a number of reasons why a dog may toilet in the house- understanding why your dog toilets in the house can help to relieve any frustration you might be feeling about these accidents. Your dog may toilet inappropriately because-

- They have a physical issue such as a urinary infection that needs resolution. A veterinary check should be your first port of call, particularly if this is a new problem that has suddenly started.
- They have moved house, their routine has changed or their toileting area has been moved or altered.
- They have not been toilet trained before or may have been outside only dogs.
- You have recently adopted the dog and they may not be sure where the toileting area actually is!
- They have been punished harshly for toileting in the presence of a person and have learned to hide accidents in other rooms or areas of the house.
- The dog may be a puppy or young dog who cannot yet physically hold on to their bladder.
- Male AND female dogs may mark in the house when reaching maturity or after other dogs have visited the home.
- Older female dogs may suffer from urinary incontinence- this is not something your dog can control and it’s important to speak with your vet regarding effective treatment and medication if needed.
- They have anxiety issues which contribute to inappropriate elimination
- Consider your dog’s diet as this can also impact toileting habits. Foods with large amounts of grain or fillers can make it difficult for a dog to hold on and excessive salt resulting in increased water intake can also make it difficult for your dog to toilet appropriately.

How to Toilet Train Your Dog!

- Decide where you would like your dog to toilet. It’s important that your dog toilets on a consistent surface type- we generally recommend natural materials like grass or mulch rather than hard surfaces. Ensure the area you would like your dog to toilet is an area where your dog regularly has access.
- Is your dog having accidents over night? Consider crate training your dog. Crate training involves providing a confined area for your dog to sleep. The area should be big enough for your dog to comfortably lie, stretch and turn around in but NOT big enough for the dog to sleep at one end and toilet at the other. Dogs do not like to soil their sleeping area so by confining your dog for this period, it will encourage your dog to hold on to their bladder/ bowel AND to let you know when they need to toilet. This may mean that someone needs to get up during the night to allow the dog to relieve themselves in the correct area. The time frame the dog can hold on for can gradually be extended over a number of weeks until the dog is consistently sleeping through the night without accident. The crate also ensures that your dog does not have the opportunity to be destructive, bark at possums etc.- meaning everyone can get a good night’s sleep!
- During the day your dog should not be crated for long periods. We need to determine the best places for the dog to spend their time to minimise any potential for accidents. Where your dog spends time may vary depending on your home situation and whether you are home or at work.
- When you are AWAY from the home the dog should be in a situation where it’s difficult for them to make a mistake. This approach is called errorless learning and is best achieved by the dog spending time in a secure, entertaining backyard if possible. If the dog needs to toilet, they are already outside so there will be no indoor mishaps. For those of you who have dogs indoors for whatever reason (apartment living etc.), set up an area (not the whole house) where you can place the dog to limit any accidents AND set up this area as follows. One third of the area should be the dog’s toileting area and should have a similar surface to the outdoor surface used outside- fake grass can be excellent for this purpose. The second third of the area should contain the dog’s food and water bowls. The food bowls do not have to have food in them but the dog should believe that they may be fed there at some stage- remember dogs don’t like to toilet where they sleep or eat. The final third of your dogs play area should have their bedding, crate if applicable and a variety of toys. This type of set up encourages your dog to go to the correct area in your absence.
- When you are AT home and your dog is inside you MUST supervise. Umbilical training can be helpful- this involves having a lead attached to you at one end and your dog at the other and prevents them from wandering off in the house to toilet. If while supervising your dog goes to have an accident, DON’T yell at or frighten them! Simply take them by the collar and without picking them up, direct them to where they should have toileted instead. Picking the dog up sends mixed messages so as tempting as it may be with smaller dogs- it’s important to make them walk to the correct toileting area.
- Take the dog outside to toilet after eating, playing and sleeping. PRAISE the dog when he toilets in the designated area- food rewards can be used intermittently to help the process.
- Ensure your dog is not present when you clean accidents- some dogs can associate the cleaning with a game so put the dog in another room or outside before cleaning. Clean with products that do not contain ammonia. Ammonia encourages the dog to toilet in the same place again so clean instead with products especially designed to clean dog accidents like “Urine off”.
- If you have put your dog outside alone to toilet, before bringing them back in spend a minute or two outside with them. Some dogs become anxious or simply distracted when outside alone and then if let inside will immediately toilet- this can be frustrating but your dog is not doing this to annoy you! Rather they just need to be given the opportunity to toilet when relaxed to help get the right idea.
- BE PATIENT. Toilet training can take some time. We don’t consider a dog completely toilet trained until 1 month after their last accident so STAY VIGILANT for this time. Relaxing too early can result in your dog regressing and your hard work will have to start again!

The information provided in the So Your Dog Series is general in nature. We recommend seeing a qualified dog trainer and having a veterinary examination completed for the best results in resolving your dogs problems. For further information or training options, go to www.underdogtraining.com.au

So Your Dog Jumps Up on People

Robert Siddle — Sat, 31 Mar 2012 05:32:29 +0000

Do you have a dog that jumps on people? Tired of muddy paws, scratches and torn clothing? While jumping up is one of the most common behaviour problems faced by dog owners, the good news is- it tends to be straightforward to resolve. Dogs jump up for a variety of reasons and jumping up issues can often worsen over time so it’s important to get started sooner rather than later!
Why does my dog jump up?
- Attention seeking, many dogs start jumping up as a way to seek attention from people. If this attention is gained it reinforces the behaviour.
- Excess excitability- particularly when people greet the dog after an absence.
- The dog has not been taught how to greet without jumping up.
- The dog pulls on lead and uses the pressure on their collar/ harness to balance, thus standing on their hind legs to greet.
- The dog perceives being told off for jumping (pushing the dog away or verbally saying “no”) up as a reward.
- Lack of exercise and stimulation
- Lack of human contact and socialisation
How to stop your dog jumping up
- Eliminate any rewards the dog is receiving. When considering the rewards the dog is receiving it’s important to look at it from the dog’s point of view. In many cases, although we think we are correcting the dog by pushing them away or saying no- the dog actually perceives this as a reward. AVOID touching or speaking to the dog when they do jump up.
- Ensure visitors to the home or strangers in the street do NOT pat or speak to the dog as they jump up.
- Avoid immediately greeting the dog upon your arrival home. Wait for the dog to calm before allowing them inside or going out to greet them after an absence.
- When the dog does jump up, step toward the dog rather than away from them, insisting that they move out of your space. Step toward the dog until they yield and move out of the way. This is an important spatial awareness exercise as many dogs who jump up lack spatial awareness and don’t understand they need to move away. To gain an even better result with this exercise, each time you move toward the dog when they are not jumping and they politely move out of the way, reinforce this with a food reward thrown in the direction they are moving.
- Teach self-control. One of the best self-control exercises involves the manipulation of food and toys depending on the dog’s behaviour. While remaining silent, simply hold some food (a treat or the dogs food bowl can be used) at chest height to start with, out of the reach of the dog. If the dog jumps up, immediately hold the food higher, out of the dogs reach. As they stop jumping, return the food to the original height it was held and if the dog does not jump or preferably offers a sit position- immediately provide the reward the dog. The food can be quickly given to the dog from hand or dropped on the ground if the dog is likely to jump as the food is delivered. Some dogs will jump multiple times before offering four paws on the ground- simply repeat the above depending on the dog’s response. Over a number of sessions gradually reduce the height at which the food is held- the closer the food to the dogs head, the more difficult to the exercise. Once the dog can have the food held close to their head without jumping, increase the duration the food is held before providing to the dog- this will help the dog to develop self-control. Once the dog can hold the position for 1 minute, go back to short periods of time (no more than 5 seconds) and increase the level of distraction- talking to the dog in a happy tone, patting the dog etc. Once the dog can do this well with you, ask others to repeat the exercise with the dog
- Keep a lead on the dog when visitors arrive at the house so you can prevent the mad dash to the door and subsequent over excited behaviour. Only allow the dog to greet when he/ she is calm- if in greeting the dog jumps, immediately remove them for a minute then provide another opportunity.
- NEVER allow the dog to greet visitors in an over excited state where they are likely to jump
- Teach the dog to sit with the command hello- this can be done in addition to your normal sit on sit command. After a number of repetitions this will translate to an automatic sit when someone says hello to the dog.
- Increase the amount of training, exercise and stimulation your dog receives on a daily basis and attend obedience classes with the dog
- Increase the quality human contact the dog experiences each day
- Teach the dog to walk well on lead so they cannot use their collar/ harness as a way to balance on their hind legs and jump. (See “So Your Dog- Pulls on the lead” for further information regarding teaching your dog to walk well)
- Consistency, Consistency, Consistency- every reward the dog received for jumping up will make extinguishing the behaviour much more difficult!!
The information provided in the So Your Dog Series is general in nature. We recommend seeing a qualified dog trainer and having a veterinary examination completed for the best results in resolving your dogs problems. For further information or training options, go to www.underdogtraining.com.au

So Your Dog- Is Destructive

Robert Siddle — Fri, 23 Mar 2012 22:54:49 +0000

Chewed Electrical cords? Missing socks? Garden and lawn excavations? Does this sound familiar! Does your dog redecorate your house and garden? While some dogs are naturally more destructive than others, there are ways to reduce your dog’s destructive tendencies and at the same time, improve your relationship with your dog. There are a number of reasons why your dog may be destroying things. Identifying this reason is a vital part of resolving the problems you experience.

Why is my dog destructive?

- Lack of exercise. Many dogs that are destructive simply do not receive enough physical exercise.
- Lack of mental stimulation and training
- Anxiety and Separation Related Behaviour
- Boredom and lack of environmental enrichment
- Learned behaviour- each time the dog destroys something and enjoys doing so, it reinforces the behaviour
- Access is given to irresistible items!
- Weather changes and lack of sleeping areas- In Summer many dogs dig holes to find a cooler spot to sleep while in Winter or after rain, many dogs will dig as a result of the changing smell of the soil/ lawn.

How to Reduce your dogs Destruction!

- When does your dog become destructive? If the behaviour only occurs in your absence and the measures below do not improve the situation, your dog may be suffering from separation anxiety. If you believe this to be the case, please contact us and we can recommend the best professional for your situation.
- Limit access! This is particularly important with young dogs and puppies. When leaving your dog in an area, ensure there is nothing within reach that they could take or destroy.
- Increase your dog’s physical exercise. Regardless of the cause of your dog’s destructive behaviour, an increase in exercise is likely to be helpful. Try to provide further physical exercise by playing active games with your dog at home such as tug of war (with an appropriate toy) as well as increasing the duration and intensity of your dogs walks. If you lack the time to increase your dogs exercise, consider employing a walker to provide further exercise to your dog while you are at work. Breaking up your dog’s day can be crucial- particularly for those full time workers with a solo dog.
- Train your dog! Going to obedience classes, taking up agility or teaching tricks at home will help to work your dog’s brain. This is just as important as the provision of physical exercise and has the added advantage that you can always make the exercise more difficult without requiring additional time. Physical exercise does not have this advantage as it needs to increase in duration or intensity as the dog’s fitness increases- if we were to rely on it alone to improve our dog’s behaviour. Training should be ongoing for your dog- if they already know the basics; working on more advanced skills will not only help to stimulate them but will also improve your bond and relationship.
- Vary your routine. While we are often limited because of work and other commitments, varying your routine can assist dogs that anticipate particular events. When a dog anticipates and expects certain things to occur and they do not, they can become anxious and this can lead to destructive behaviour. By varying the routine, the dog does not develop these firm expectancies and is less likely to experience increasing anxiety. Try to walk and feed your dog at different times, vary when the dog is inside and outside etc.
- What does your dog have to stimulate them when they are in their backyard? While many dogs have toys, few dogs have toys that interact with them without a person’s presence. Gather up all of your dog’s toys and divide them into 2 or 3 groups- start rotating these groups every few days so that your dog regularly has a collection of ‘new’ toys to play with. In addition, you may want to consider purchasing some interactive treat balls, nylabones and hanging toys that can hold your dog’s interest even when you’re not there to play. Reduce your dog’s meals so that you can use their treat balls to feed them. Treat balls provide both mental and physical stimulation as your dog works hard to access the food inside. Does your dog enjoy safe rawhide chews, pigs ears or greenies chews? Try to find treats that will last your dog a number of hours rat her than those that are eaten quickly- this may take some experimenting.
- Provide a digging area- If your dog enjoys digging, set up an area with clean sand where toys and treats are semi buried. This will encourage your dog to fulfil their need to dig in an appropriate area. You may also wish to safely peg plastic mesh flat over your garden beds- with holes cut for your plants- to discourage digging in garden areas. Consider what your dog is bred for- many terriers will dig instinctually- rather than getting frustrated, accept that this is and will continue to be a part of them and you can direct it to an appropriate area.
- Does your dog steal? If your dog regularly takes inappropriate items when you are present he may be doing this as a way to get your attention. DON’T chase your dog when they do this- this creates a rewarding game that your dog will want to play regularly!! Instead teach your dog to approach you with something in their mouth- gently remove the item by squeezing either side of your dogs mouth until they relinquish the item 20-30 seconds later- redirect the dog to an item that they are allowed to chew and play with. If you need your dog to drop something urgently, rather than approach them, turn away from them and with or without an item to focus on, pretend you are having the most fantastic time- plenty of noise and movement is likely to get your dog to drop the object and come over to see what on earth you’re so excited about! If you catch your dog AS they are trying to steal something, you need to quickly intervene- preventing the dog from picking up the item (grabbing a collar or a quick clap of the hands works for many dogs in this instance) and 20-30 seconds later, redirect the dog to an appropriate toy.
- Provide appropriate shelter and cool places to lie in Summer for your dog. Touch the areas where you think your dog will lie- if the surfaces are too hot for you to comfortably touch- they will be too hot for your dog to lay for more than a few moments!

So Your Dog- Doesn’t come when called!

Robert Siddle — Thu, 15 Mar 2012 20:09:41 +0000

We know that a reliable recall is important- your dog coming when called could be the difference between them staying safe or being in danger! While most people prioritise teaching a reliable recall, many struggle with achieving success. Although a seemingly simple exercise, the recall can be the most difficult to teach- the good news is, it doesn’t have to be any longer!
So why does teaching a recall seem more difficult than teaching other obedience exercises?
• The environment is too distracting for the dogs level of training
• The dog is provided with opportunities to self-reward- running away to play with dogs or other people for example
• Frustration and high levels of excitement are reinforced- the dog pulls on the lead all the way to the park and is immediately let off lead
• Lack of conditioning- the dog doesn’t have any association with the command being used
• Dog desensitised to owners repeated commands
• Dogs are socialised in a way that develops a high value for other dogs- large amounts of uncontrolled, high energy play with other dogs tends to create problems with the development of a recall command
• Breed instincts not in line with a natural reliable recall- some dogs find it more difficult, often those that have been bred to work independently of people or who are extremely sociable.
• Limited access to off lead areas
• Less exercise provided than required
What is Classical Conditioning? Classical conditioning is a pairing exercise where somethings that is initially neutral to the dog, is paired with something the dog naturally finds appealing- such as food. So for example, when you pair a food bowl with food a number of times, the dog becomes excited at the presence of the food bowl- even if there is no food currently in it. Imagine if you could get that type of response to a recall command! The good news is, you can!
What if my dog is not motivated by food or toys? Every dog is motivated by food- they can’t survive without it! However, for those dogs who are not motivated enough to want food additional to their meals, you may want to use their meals during training for the time being. Special drive rewards can also be used for some dogs- rabbit fur tugs, raccoons tail toys etc.- these are particularly beneficial for prey driven dogs who want to go chasing rabbits instead of returning to you!
Is my dog too old for this kind of training? No dog is ever too old! However, if the dog has been practicing the behaviour for a long period of time, the conditioning process will take a little longer or require more repetitions than if you were to start with an 8 week old puppy.
The 10 Step Program for Teaching the Elusive- Reliable Recalls
1. Prevent the dog from self-rewarding when running away. This may mean putting the dog on a long line in the park or walking the dog more on lead during the training process. Care should be taken to ensure the dogs exercise level does not decrease during this time.
2. Find the dog’s motivator- food or a toy will generally be needed and both should be utilised where possible. Deprivation schedules may be needed to increase value for the motivator in the early stages of training.
3. Choose a recall word that has not been tainted before to use for the 100% reliable recall- this will be your emergency recall. The dog’s name (or another word if you would prefer) will also be used for the training process. This method develops one informal recall (to be used regularly) and one formal recall (to be used less frequently) which is to be absolutely reliable.
4. The Name Game- Calling the dogs name ONCE only, when the dog makes eye contact, mark with either the word “yes” or a clicker and immediately food reward. This exercise should be repeated at least 25 times per day. For those wanting quicker or more reliable results, increase the number of repetitions of the exercise. Continue the Name Game throughout the remaining 6 steps of the Reliable Recall program but you may decrease the number of repetitions to 10 after the first 2 weeks.
5. The Emergency Recall- After a few days of the Name Game only start to condition (pair with food) the Emergency recall at home. Remember to use the word only once and deliver the reward regardless of what the dog does.
6. Gradually increase the level of distraction. Only move to a new level of distraction when the dog has done 5 repetitions where they immediately turned their head upon hearing their ER word.
7. Start to move locations in and around the home (particularly around the front door if the dog would tend to race out the door previously)
8. Play hide and seek within the house, using the ER once and providing the dog with a jackpot reward when they find you. Make it easy to begin with and gradually increase the level of difficulty- this encourages the dog to be persistent and builds frustration. Building frustration often helps to increase the speed of a recall. The faster the recall, the more reliable it is likely to be. Puppy in the Middle is also a valuable game to play with any dog learning to recall but does require 2 handlers.
9. With the dog on lead begin using the ER on walks and in other distracting situations. Remember to reinforce EVERY time the ER word is used. Jackpot rewards can be used for the exceptional responses from the dog.
10. In outside environments, begin to increase the distance away from the dog. When increasing distance, start with low level distractions and gradually increase. Distraction, duration and distance should be gradually increased- but care should be taken to separate these to start with.
The information provided in the So Your Dog Series is general in nature. We recommend seeing a qualified dog trainer and having a veterinary examination completed for the best results in resolving your dogs problems. For further information or training options, go to www.underdogtraining.com.au

Assistance Dogs Australia and PETstock sponsorship program

Robert Siddle — Wed, 04 Jan 2012 07:14:27 +0000

Assistance Dogs and PETstock South Melbourne Sponsorship
Ever thought of sponsoring a puppy that would help people with certain disabilities?

We did and currently sponsor Jaxon who is 10 months old.

We feel that this has been so successful that we have decided to sponsor another puppy but need someone to assist us.

PETstock South Melbourne would provide everything you need at no cost to you, Vet’s bills, food, toys, equipment etc.

What you would need to do is care for the puppy and help with his training.

One thing that stops many people from sponsoring a puppy is committing the time and also what happens when you want to go away.

Well, we would also assist with that.

Just talk to us and we can discuss whether this arrangement would work for you.

Regards
Robert Siddle
Director

Senior Dog Exercise

Robert Siddle — Thu, 22 Dec 2011 21:45:13 +0000

Many dog owners believe as their dog becomes older they no longer need exercise, however this is far from true. Much the same as humans, dogs often suffer from arthritis as they age, which tends to lead to stiff joints and pain. The main concern with this is that the more time your pet spends still, the stiffer they become, accelerating the pain experienced from arthritis. Consequently, it is important to remember that if your dog has arthritis this does not mean he/she should remain sedentary as this results in further stiffening and a harder time trying to move, just like people.

For this reason it is important to continue with daily exercise when your dog is younger and continue this through their senior years; however it is important to tailor to their comfort level. Keeping in mind your dogs comfort level will involve being aware that your senior pet would not be expected to run or walk at the same speed or distance as a one or two year old can. It is necessary to keep track of how your dog is feeling during exercise to ensure you do not push him/her further than they are able as this can result in more pain and they will become reluctant to walk in future. When considering this, a daily short walk or activity is essential in keeping your dog as healthy as possible.

There are ways to help combat the severity of arthritis. Adding glucosamine to their diet can help ease swelling or inflammation whilst helping to lubricate their joints more. This can be done in several ways, two main ones are by adding a glucosamine powder to their daily meal or giving treats high in glucosamine. The correct dosage is dependant on your dog’s body weight and can be found out on the back of most of the packaging. In at PETstock South Melbourne we have a variety of glucosamine products. If you have any specific questions or would like to purchase some for your dog please do not hesitate in asking for help from one of our friendly staff at PETstock South Melbourne. The main aim of combining physical activity and dietary supplements for pet is so they can continue to be comfortable and happy for longer.

Old Dog Walking

Remember managing physical activity to your dog’s ability is an excellent way to reduce the severity of arthritis. Combining this with a good diet which is preferably holistic will help your dog to age gracefully.

Do Dogs of Various Sizes Have Different Exercise Needs?

When considering how much exercise your dog needs it is important to take its size and weight into account. Regimes will differ greatly between a large dog and a small one as the small one may need to take 3 steps for every 1 of the large dogs. This ultimately means that a smaller dog will work off more calories in a shorter distance. Therefore, each dog needs to have their own exercise routine tailored for him or her, so that it is enough exercise, but do not overdo it.

If you are accustomed to exercising a larger dog, you cannot expect a dog that is five times smaller to keep the same exercise routine. A good way to know if your dog has had enough exercise is to familiarise yourself with how he/she behaves afterwards. Consider is the dog worn out but still content? Hopefully they will be puffed and tired but not sore and unhappy. If you come home from exercising and the dog collapses and goes right to sleep and is very stiff the following day, you probably over did the exercise. Alternatively if you come back from an exercise and the dog is still wound up, he or she did not get enough exercise.

Therefore, the exercise you provide your dog is very individualized just as it is for people. Some people can jog for 10km and others for 15, but the end result is the same for both people. For instance if you have a naturally hyperactive dog ie a sheep dog such as a border collie you will need to exercise him/her more than you would a more a toy poodle. It is essential to acknowledge that finding the appropriate balance is very important.

Therefore, you need to begin with walks or fetching and see how your dog responds. If he or she is constantly active, then give them more exercise, because a dog that is not exercised with pent up energies has no other outlet than to be destructive. If your dog is destroying items in the home, it is not the dog’s fault if you are not providing the necessary exercise. Consequently, remember when you own a dog, regardless of their size, breed, or age, they need exercise; it is part of being a responsible dog owner.

You do not have to be an exercise junkie yourself in order to provide your dog with the needed exercise. You can play fetch with your dog, which provides excellent exercise because it gives him or her chance to run, catch, and then bring back the ball or toy back. At PETstock South Melbourne we can help to supply you with the necessary exercising aids, especially for active dogs. Some of the products available include ball throwers, Frisbees, playing tuggle ropes, jolly balls and many other toys to help keep your dog active. Keep in mind many dogs also love to swim so if you have a pool or can take them to the beach, swimming is a great form of exercise.

When taking your dog for a walk it is also important to ensure he/she is wearing the correct collar and lead which suits both you and your pet. There are a range of walking devices accessible which can be helped fitted by staff at PETstock South Melbourne including choker chains, variety of harnesses, haltis and other accessories which can help make walking your dog easier. We also have a variety of leads to suit.

Additional walking/ travel aids are also available at PETstock South Melbourne including travel bowls, water bottles, treat pouches, poo bags & holders and many other handy aids.

Is Your Dog a Couch Potato?

Dogs tend to reflect their owners behaviour. Often they do not like to exercise because you are a couch potato too; they have not been shown an alternative way to live. It is important to note that even if your dog has always been a couch potato, it is never too late to get your dog up and going for some exercise. Exercise is important for a healthy body and healthy mind. It is best to be consistent with exercise, it doesn’t matter if you are walking your dog or playing fetch; the more you do the greater the benefits you will see and its never to late to start!

To begin with do not be put off if your dog looks reluctant to go for a walk. Once you start to get into a routine, the saddened look when you grab the leash will start to disappear. Monitor the change in your dogs fitness as you continue to regularly exercise him/her; initially, he or she is probably going to be exhausted and want to go right to sleep when you take a quick walk around the block. Be patient as dogs are no different to humans and it will take your dogs body a while to become accustomed to exercising and actually enjoying the benefits of it. Gradually you should find your dog will be excited when you pick up his leash.

Initially begin with light exercise, perhaps a stroll around the block the first few times building up to a couple of blocks later in the week and continue to increase the distance and or pace. As time progresses your pet will not be so tired or winded during your exercise outings. Additionally he/she will most likely start to loose some weight and slimming down. This is a great benefit of exercise as it will help to keep your dog fit and healthy in both the body and the mind

Remember if your dog has been lazy for a long period of time it will take your initiative to get him/her going and being active. There are some handy tools you can use to help make your pets exercising time more enjoyable that you can purchase at PETstock South Melbourne. We have a variety of leads tailored for both you and your pet depending on comfort and size. There are also a variety of harnesses, collars and haltis. In addition various treats can help with training whist exercising that can be obtained from our large treat section in the PETstock South Melbourne store or accessories such as portable drinking bowls. If you have any queries regarding the best walking tools for you our helpful staff will be more than willing to assist you.

Lastly it is extremely important to consider your dogs diet when considering your pets healthiness as a whole. PETstock South Melbourne offers a large variety of premium and holistic dogs foods which can cater for every dogs needs. These types of foods are best as they have less fillers and are a more natural diet. The bonus in feeding your dog this type of food over the food accessible in the supermarket is that they should be able to eat slightly less and poo less as more nutrition is absorbed rather than passed through! Less poo to pick up yay! Some of the brands we stock are Eagle Pack, Holistic Select, Advance, Royal Cannin, Hills Science Diet, Nutro and Pro Plan to name a few.