PETstock South Melbourne

Assistance Dogs Australia Break New Ground

Robert Siddle — Thu, 19 Apr 2012 09:00:46 +0000

Assistance Dogs Australia’s mummy dog, Brielle has had a litter of ten healthy and happy puppies as part of a WORLD FIRST BREEDING PROGRAM as they were born at a Correctional Centre and delivered by inmates (with the help of Dr Chris Brown). They are as cute as buttons! Keep an eye on our facebook and twitter pages to find out when they will be making an appearance on Bondi Vet.

In this issue Daisy from Brielle’s first litter tells you all about how her new brother’s and sister’s have been socialised and about their upcoming puppy testing and we ask you to sign up to one of the challenge events and raise funds and awareness for the Super Pups!

Our recipients face huge challenges everyday and they tackle them head on and without fear. It’s inspirational. By taking on your own challenge you can help them overcome theirs a little easier with an Assistance Dog by their side.

A new breed

Jail dogs with a job
Assistance Dogs Australia are proud to introduce our new litter born on the 17th February as part of a world first breeding program.

Assistance Dogs Australia’s mummy dog, Brielle had ten happy and healthy puppies within Emu Plains Correctional Centre delivered by inmates and aided by the Bondi Vet, Dr Chris Brown.

The new Super Pups and of course their mummy, Brielle are doing wonderfully thanks to the inmates and staff at Emu Plains Corrective Centre and Emu Plains Vet.

“The new breeding program is a fantastic expansion of our current Pups in Prison Program which is running in centres across the country,” said Assistance Dogs Australia’s Top Dog, Richard Lord. “The program assists inmates in their own rehabilitation and gives them a unique opportunity to give back to the community with dogs going on to help people with physical disabilities.”

This new breeding program is even more special because it will give inmates an opportunity to see the entire process – from birth to placement with someone in need. Plus it is the first time it has ever been done anywhere in the world! It means our puppies are being handled by experienced carers from day one and opens up lots of opportunities to breed dogs suited to the program.

Make sure you check out the amazing photos of the pups in the Daily Telegraph gallery.

So Your Dog- Toilets in the house

Robert Siddle — Sat, 14 Apr 2012 04:30:49 +0000

Having trouble with your dog toileting inappropriately? After ruling out any physical issues with your veterinarian, it’s important to get started as soon as possible teaching your dog where you would like them to toilet. Each time your dog has an accident in the house; it reinforces the behaviour so time is of the essence!

Why do dogs toilet in the house or in inappropriate areas?

There are a number of reasons why a dog may toilet in the house- understanding why your dog toilets in the house can help to relieve any frustration you might be feeling about these accidents. Your dog may toilet inappropriately because-

- They have a physical issue such as a urinary infection that needs resolution. A veterinary check should be your first port of call, particularly if this is a new problem that has suddenly started.
- They have moved house, their routine has changed or their toileting area has been moved or altered.
- They have not been toilet trained before or may have been outside only dogs.
- You have recently adopted the dog and they may not be sure where the toileting area actually is!
- They have been punished harshly for toileting in the presence of a person and have learned to hide accidents in other rooms or areas of the house.
- The dog may be a puppy or young dog who cannot yet physically hold on to their bladder.
- Male AND female dogs may mark in the house when reaching maturity or after other dogs have visited the home.
- Older female dogs may suffer from urinary incontinence- this is not something your dog can control and it’s important to speak with your vet regarding effective treatment and medication if needed.
- They have anxiety issues which contribute to inappropriate elimination
- Consider your dog’s diet as this can also impact toileting habits. Foods with large amounts of grain or fillers can make it difficult for a dog to hold on and excessive salt resulting in increased water intake can also make it difficult for your dog to toilet appropriately.

How to Toilet Train Your Dog!

- Decide where you would like your dog to toilet. It’s important that your dog toilets on a consistent surface type- we generally recommend natural materials like grass or mulch rather than hard surfaces. Ensure the area you would like your dog to toilet is an area where your dog regularly has access.
- Is your dog having accidents over night? Consider crate training your dog. Crate training involves providing a confined area for your dog to sleep. The area should be big enough for your dog to comfortably lie, stretch and turn around in but NOT big enough for the dog to sleep at one end and toilet at the other. Dogs do not like to soil their sleeping area so by confining your dog for this period, it will encourage your dog to hold on to their bladder/ bowel AND to let you know when they need to toilet. This may mean that someone needs to get up during the night to allow the dog to relieve themselves in the correct area. The time frame the dog can hold on for can gradually be extended over a number of weeks until the dog is consistently sleeping through the night without accident. The crate also ensures that your dog does not have the opportunity to be destructive, bark at possums etc.- meaning everyone can get a good night’s sleep!
- During the day your dog should not be crated for long periods. We need to determine the best places for the dog to spend their time to minimise any potential for accidents. Where your dog spends time may vary depending on your home situation and whether you are home or at work.
- When you are AWAY from the home the dog should be in a situation where it’s difficult for them to make a mistake. This approach is called errorless learning and is best achieved by the dog spending time in a secure, entertaining backyard if possible. If the dog needs to toilet, they are already outside so there will be no indoor mishaps. For those of you who have dogs indoors for whatever reason (apartment living etc.), set up an area (not the whole house) where you can place the dog to limit any accidents AND set up this area as follows. One third of the area should be the dog’s toileting area and should have a similar surface to the outdoor surface used outside- fake grass can be excellent for this purpose. The second third of the area should contain the dog’s food and water bowls. The food bowls do not have to have food in them but the dog should believe that they may be fed there at some stage- remember dogs don’t like to toilet where they sleep or eat. The final third of your dogs play area should have their bedding, crate if applicable and a variety of toys. This type of set up encourages your dog to go to the correct area in your absence.
- When you are AT home and your dog is inside you MUST supervise. Umbilical training can be helpful- this involves having a lead attached to you at one end and your dog at the other and prevents them from wandering off in the house to toilet. If while supervising your dog goes to have an accident, DON’T yell at or frighten them! Simply take them by the collar and without picking them up, direct them to where they should have toileted instead. Picking the dog up sends mixed messages so as tempting as it may be with smaller dogs- it’s important to make them walk to the correct toileting area.
- Take the dog outside to toilet after eating, playing and sleeping. PRAISE the dog when he toilets in the designated area- food rewards can be used intermittently to help the process.
- Ensure your dog is not present when you clean accidents- some dogs can associate the cleaning with a game so put the dog in another room or outside before cleaning. Clean with products that do not contain ammonia. Ammonia encourages the dog to toilet in the same place again so clean instead with products especially designed to clean dog accidents like “Urine off”.
- If you have put your dog outside alone to toilet, before bringing them back in spend a minute or two outside with them. Some dogs become anxious or simply distracted when outside alone and then if let inside will immediately toilet- this can be frustrating but your dog is not doing this to annoy you! Rather they just need to be given the opportunity to toilet when relaxed to help get the right idea.
- BE PATIENT. Toilet training can take some time. We don’t consider a dog completely toilet trained until 1 month after their last accident so STAY VIGILANT for this time. Relaxing too early can result in your dog regressing and your hard work will have to start again!

The information provided in the So Your Dog Series is general in nature. We recommend seeing a qualified dog trainer and having a veterinary examination completed for the best results in resolving your dogs problems. For further information or training options, go to www.underdogtraining.com.au

So Your Dog Jumps Up on People

Robert Siddle — Sat, 31 Mar 2012 05:32:29 +0000

Do you have a dog that jumps on people? Tired of muddy paws, scratches and torn clothing? While jumping up is one of the most common behaviour problems faced by dog owners, the good news is- it tends to be straightforward to resolve. Dogs jump up for a variety of reasons and jumping up issues can often worsen over time so it’s important to get started sooner rather than later!
Why does my dog jump up?
- Attention seeking, many dogs start jumping up as a way to seek attention from people. If this attention is gained it reinforces the behaviour.
- Excess excitability- particularly when people greet the dog after an absence.
- The dog has not been taught how to greet without jumping up.
- The dog pulls on lead and uses the pressure on their collar/ harness to balance, thus standing on their hind legs to greet.
- The dog perceives being told off for jumping (pushing the dog away or verbally saying “no”) up as a reward.
- Lack of exercise and stimulation
- Lack of human contact and socialisation
How to stop your dog jumping up
- Eliminate any rewards the dog is receiving. When considering the rewards the dog is receiving it’s important to look at it from the dog’s point of view. In many cases, although we think we are correcting the dog by pushing them away or saying no- the dog actually perceives this as a reward. AVOID touching or speaking to the dog when they do jump up.
- Ensure visitors to the home or strangers in the street do NOT pat or speak to the dog as they jump up.
- Avoid immediately greeting the dog upon your arrival home. Wait for the dog to calm before allowing them inside or going out to greet them after an absence.
- When the dog does jump up, step toward the dog rather than away from them, insisting that they move out of your space. Step toward the dog until they yield and move out of the way. This is an important spatial awareness exercise as many dogs who jump up lack spatial awareness and don’t understand they need to move away. To gain an even better result with this exercise, each time you move toward the dog when they are not jumping and they politely move out of the way, reinforce this with a food reward thrown in the direction they are moving.
- Teach self-control. One of the best self-control exercises involves the manipulation of food and toys depending on the dog’s behaviour. While remaining silent, simply hold some food (a treat or the dogs food bowl can be used) at chest height to start with, out of the reach of the dog. If the dog jumps up, immediately hold the food higher, out of the dogs reach. As they stop jumping, return the food to the original height it was held and if the dog does not jump or preferably offers a sit position- immediately provide the reward the dog. The food can be quickly given to the dog from hand or dropped on the ground if the dog is likely to jump as the food is delivered. Some dogs will jump multiple times before offering four paws on the ground- simply repeat the above depending on the dog’s response. Over a number of sessions gradually reduce the height at which the food is held- the closer the food to the dogs head, the more difficult to the exercise. Once the dog can have the food held close to their head without jumping, increase the duration the food is held before providing to the dog- this will help the dog to develop self-control. Once the dog can hold the position for 1 minute, go back to short periods of time (no more than 5 seconds) and increase the level of distraction- talking to the dog in a happy tone, patting the dog etc. Once the dog can do this well with you, ask others to repeat the exercise with the dog
- Keep a lead on the dog when visitors arrive at the house so you can prevent the mad dash to the door and subsequent over excited behaviour. Only allow the dog to greet when he/ she is calm- if in greeting the dog jumps, immediately remove them for a minute then provide another opportunity.
- NEVER allow the dog to greet visitors in an over excited state where they are likely to jump
- Teach the dog to sit with the command hello- this can be done in addition to your normal sit on sit command. After a number of repetitions this will translate to an automatic sit when someone says hello to the dog.
- Increase the amount of training, exercise and stimulation your dog receives on a daily basis and attend obedience classes with the dog
- Increase the quality human contact the dog experiences each day
- Teach the dog to walk well on lead so they cannot use their collar/ harness as a way to balance on their hind legs and jump. (See “So Your Dog- Pulls on the lead” for further information regarding teaching your dog to walk well)
- Consistency, Consistency, Consistency- every reward the dog received for jumping up will make extinguishing the behaviour much more difficult!!
The information provided in the So Your Dog Series is general in nature. We recommend seeing a qualified dog trainer and having a veterinary examination completed for the best results in resolving your dogs problems. For further information or training options, go to www.underdogtraining.com.au

So Your Dog- Is Destructive

Robert Siddle — Fri, 23 Mar 2012 22:54:49 +0000

Chewed Electrical cords? Missing socks? Garden and lawn excavations? Does this sound familiar! Does your dog redecorate your house and garden? While some dogs are naturally more destructive than others, there are ways to reduce your dog’s destructive tendencies and at the same time, improve your relationship with your dog. There are a number of reasons why your dog may be destroying things. Identifying this reason is a vital part of resolving the problems you experience.

Why is my dog destructive?

- Lack of exercise. Many dogs that are destructive simply do not receive enough physical exercise.
- Lack of mental stimulation and training
- Anxiety and Separation Related Behaviour
- Boredom and lack of environmental enrichment
- Learned behaviour- each time the dog destroys something and enjoys doing so, it reinforces the behaviour
- Access is given to irresistible items!
- Weather changes and lack of sleeping areas- In Summer many dogs dig holes to find a cooler spot to sleep while in Winter or after rain, many dogs will dig as a result of the changing smell of the soil/ lawn.

How to Reduce your dogs Destruction!

- When does your dog become destructive? If the behaviour only occurs in your absence and the measures below do not improve the situation, your dog may be suffering from separation anxiety. If you believe this to be the case, please contact us and we can recommend the best professional for your situation.
- Limit access! This is particularly important with young dogs and puppies. When leaving your dog in an area, ensure there is nothing within reach that they could take or destroy.
- Increase your dog’s physical exercise. Regardless of the cause of your dog’s destructive behaviour, an increase in exercise is likely to be helpful. Try to provide further physical exercise by playing active games with your dog at home such as tug of war (with an appropriate toy) as well as increasing the duration and intensity of your dogs walks. If you lack the time to increase your dogs exercise, consider employing a walker to provide further exercise to your dog while you are at work. Breaking up your dog’s day can be crucial- particularly for those full time workers with a solo dog.
- Train your dog! Going to obedience classes, taking up agility or teaching tricks at home will help to work your dog’s brain. This is just as important as the provision of physical exercise and has the added advantage that you can always make the exercise more difficult without requiring additional time. Physical exercise does not have this advantage as it needs to increase in duration or intensity as the dog’s fitness increases- if we were to rely on it alone to improve our dog’s behaviour. Training should be ongoing for your dog- if they already know the basics; working on more advanced skills will not only help to stimulate them but will also improve your bond and relationship.
- Vary your routine. While we are often limited because of work and other commitments, varying your routine can assist dogs that anticipate particular events. When a dog anticipates and expects certain things to occur and they do not, they can become anxious and this can lead to destructive behaviour. By varying the routine, the dog does not develop these firm expectancies and is less likely to experience increasing anxiety. Try to walk and feed your dog at different times, vary when the dog is inside and outside etc.
- What does your dog have to stimulate them when they are in their backyard? While many dogs have toys, few dogs have toys that interact with them without a person’s presence. Gather up all of your dog’s toys and divide them into 2 or 3 groups- start rotating these groups every few days so that your dog regularly has a collection of ‘new’ toys to play with. In addition, you may want to consider purchasing some interactive treat balls, nylabones and hanging toys that can hold your dog’s interest even when you’re not there to play. Reduce your dog’s meals so that you can use their treat balls to feed them. Treat balls provide both mental and physical stimulation as your dog works hard to access the food inside. Does your dog enjoy safe rawhide chews, pigs ears or greenies chews? Try to find treats that will last your dog a number of hours rat her than those that are eaten quickly- this may take some experimenting.
- Provide a digging area- If your dog enjoys digging, set up an area with clean sand where toys and treats are semi buried. This will encourage your dog to fulfil their need to dig in an appropriate area. You may also wish to safely peg plastic mesh flat over your garden beds- with holes cut for your plants- to discourage digging in garden areas. Consider what your dog is bred for- many terriers will dig instinctually- rather than getting frustrated, accept that this is and will continue to be a part of them and you can direct it to an appropriate area.
- Does your dog steal? If your dog regularly takes inappropriate items when you are present he may be doing this as a way to get your attention. DON’T chase your dog when they do this- this creates a rewarding game that your dog will want to play regularly!! Instead teach your dog to approach you with something in their mouth- gently remove the item by squeezing either side of your dogs mouth until they relinquish the item 20-30 seconds later- redirect the dog to an item that they are allowed to chew and play with. If you need your dog to drop something urgently, rather than approach them, turn away from them and with or without an item to focus on, pretend you are having the most fantastic time- plenty of noise and movement is likely to get your dog to drop the object and come over to see what on earth you’re so excited about! If you catch your dog AS they are trying to steal something, you need to quickly intervene- preventing the dog from picking up the item (grabbing a collar or a quick clap of the hands works for many dogs in this instance) and 20-30 seconds later, redirect the dog to an appropriate toy.
- Provide appropriate shelter and cool places to lie in Summer for your dog. Touch the areas where you think your dog will lie- if the surfaces are too hot for you to comfortably touch- they will be too hot for your dog to lay for more than a few moments!

So Your Dog- Doesn’t come when called!

Robert Siddle — Thu, 15 Mar 2012 20:09:41 +0000

We know that a reliable recall is important- your dog coming when called could be the difference between them staying safe or being in danger! While most people prioritise teaching a reliable recall, many struggle with achieving success. Although a seemingly simple exercise, the recall can be the most difficult to teach- the good news is, it doesn’t have to be any longer!
So why does teaching a recall seem more difficult than teaching other obedience exercises?
• The environment is too distracting for the dogs level of training
• The dog is provided with opportunities to self-reward- running away to play with dogs or other people for example
• Frustration and high levels of excitement are reinforced- the dog pulls on the lead all the way to the park and is immediately let off lead
• Lack of conditioning- the dog doesn’t have any association with the command being used
• Dog desensitised to owners repeated commands
• Dogs are socialised in a way that develops a high value for other dogs- large amounts of uncontrolled, high energy play with other dogs tends to create problems with the development of a recall command
• Breed instincts not in line with a natural reliable recall- some dogs find it more difficult, often those that have been bred to work independently of people or who are extremely sociable.
• Limited access to off lead areas
• Less exercise provided than required
What is Classical Conditioning? Classical conditioning is a pairing exercise where somethings that is initially neutral to the dog, is paired with something the dog naturally finds appealing- such as food. So for example, when you pair a food bowl with food a number of times, the dog becomes excited at the presence of the food bowl- even if there is no food currently in it. Imagine if you could get that type of response to a recall command! The good news is, you can!
What if my dog is not motivated by food or toys? Every dog is motivated by food- they can’t survive without it! However, for those dogs who are not motivated enough to want food additional to their meals, you may want to use their meals during training for the time being. Special drive rewards can also be used for some dogs- rabbit fur tugs, raccoons tail toys etc.- these are particularly beneficial for prey driven dogs who want to go chasing rabbits instead of returning to you!
Is my dog too old for this kind of training? No dog is ever too old! However, if the dog has been practicing the behaviour for a long period of time, the conditioning process will take a little longer or require more repetitions than if you were to start with an 8 week old puppy.
The 10 Step Program for Teaching the Elusive- Reliable Recalls
1. Prevent the dog from self-rewarding when running away. This may mean putting the dog on a long line in the park or walking the dog more on lead during the training process. Care should be taken to ensure the dogs exercise level does not decrease during this time.
2. Find the dog’s motivator- food or a toy will generally be needed and both should be utilised where possible. Deprivation schedules may be needed to increase value for the motivator in the early stages of training.
3. Choose a recall word that has not been tainted before to use for the 100% reliable recall- this will be your emergency recall. The dog’s name (or another word if you would prefer) will also be used for the training process. This method develops one informal recall (to be used regularly) and one formal recall (to be used less frequently) which is to be absolutely reliable.
4. The Name Game- Calling the dogs name ONCE only, when the dog makes eye contact, mark with either the word “yes” or a clicker and immediately food reward. This exercise should be repeated at least 25 times per day. For those wanting quicker or more reliable results, increase the number of repetitions of the exercise. Continue the Name Game throughout the remaining 6 steps of the Reliable Recall program but you may decrease the number of repetitions to 10 after the first 2 weeks.
5. The Emergency Recall- After a few days of the Name Game only start to condition (pair with food) the Emergency recall at home. Remember to use the word only once and deliver the reward regardless of what the dog does.
6. Gradually increase the level of distraction. Only move to a new level of distraction when the dog has done 5 repetitions where they immediately turned their head upon hearing their ER word.
7. Start to move locations in and around the home (particularly around the front door if the dog would tend to race out the door previously)
8. Play hide and seek within the house, using the ER once and providing the dog with a jackpot reward when they find you. Make it easy to begin with and gradually increase the level of difficulty- this encourages the dog to be persistent and builds frustration. Building frustration often helps to increase the speed of a recall. The faster the recall, the more reliable it is likely to be. Puppy in the Middle is also a valuable game to play with any dog learning to recall but does require 2 handlers.
9. With the dog on lead begin using the ER on walks and in other distracting situations. Remember to reinforce EVERY time the ER word is used. Jackpot rewards can be used for the exceptional responses from the dog.
10. In outside environments, begin to increase the distance away from the dog. When increasing distance, start with low level distractions and gradually increase. Distraction, duration and distance should be gradually increased- but care should be taken to separate these to start with.
The information provided in the So Your Dog Series is general in nature. We recommend seeing a qualified dog trainer and having a veterinary examination completed for the best results in resolving your dogs problems. For further information or training options, go to www.underdogtraining.com.au

20 Facts about rabbits

Robert Siddle — Mon, 27 Feb 2012 03:21:01 +0000

1. Rabbits are not rodents like rats, mice and guinea pigs, they are lagomorph (hares, rabbits and pikas). This is why generally rabbis and guinea pigs are not the best companions.
2. Rabbits need lots of fibre in their diet to keep their teeth from over growing; they have 28 that never stop growing! Their diet should consist of 80%-90% grass or oaten hay plus vegetable and greens. Rabbit food such as this can be purchased at PETstock South Melbourne. Pellets are also available but are high in energy and a diet based largely on these can cause problems; served in moderation is best.
3. A female rabbit is called a “doe” and a male rabbit is called a “buck”- just like deer’s.
4. Rabbits can purr! This makes a similar sound to a cat however it is done by lightly grinding their teeth.
5. A happy or excited rabbit can jump about1m high and do a twist. This is called a “binky”.
6. The average age a rabbit will live is 10years. During their lifetime if they are not desexed they can produce hundreds of offspring. This is why there is the colloquial phrase “breed like rabbits”
7. Rabbits dropping pass through their body twice! They eat their soft light droppings to produce the dark droppings. This is a normal and healthy process.
8. Rabbits can be litter trained. At PETstock South Melbourne litter trays and litter can be purchased. They usually go to the toilet in the same place every time(even in their litter box) which is why they can be easily trained making them a good indoor pet.
9. Rabbits can groom themselves
10. Rabbits cannot vomit, unlike cats, so they need plenty of hey in their diet to ensure fur balls pass through safely.
11. A group of Rabbits is called a “herd” and they live in “warrens”.
12. Rabbits are not solitary animals. They need interaction from suitable friends such as other rabbits or humans. So make sure you give your rabbit plenty of attention or get your rabbit a best friend.
13. Unwanted behaviours such as fighting, urine spraying, biting and scratching can be eliminated by desexing your rabbits. Both males and females should be desexed.
14. Rabbits only sweat through the pads of their feet.
15. A predator can literally scare a rabbit to death! You must also be careful when handling them as they are gentle creatures and can stress easily.
16. There are many different breeds of domestic rabbits, all of which are descendants of the European wild rabbit.
17. An adult rabbit drinks about 5-10mls of water per day. It is vial to ensure they have a constant supply of fresh water. Water drinkers are also available in a variety of sizes and types in at PETstock SouthMelbourne.
18. Rabbits are prone to fatal illnesses just like cats and dogs. Calicivirus is one of those diseases. Fortunately a yearly vaccination is available.
19. Rabbits can make interesting pets – for any age group and they’re easy to look after if all the basic requirements of housing, diet and preventative health care are met.
20. 2011 is the year of the rabbit!!

The domestic hen – Bad habits + laying etc

Robert Siddle — Fri, 10 Feb 2012 07:39:35 +0000

EGG EATING
Laying hens are naturally inclined to eat broken eggs – this is not caused by a feed deficiency. At times this trait develops into a vice whereby a hen pecks at eggs to break and eat them.
Once this habit starts it is difficult to break and will of course result in serious egg losses and may also lead to cannibalism. It is best to prevent egg eating from starting with good management, such as providing plenty of litter in nests, prompt removal of broken eggs and collecting eggs twice a day.
FEATHER PICKING AND CANNIBALISM
This vice usually results from overcrowding, lack of drinking and feeding space, idleness and poor conditions. Any birds that have been vent picked, traumatised by other hens or are showing signs of poor health and debilitation should be immediately culled in a humane manner.
Seek advice from your Veterinarian or State Department of Agriculture or Primary Industries regarding appropriate culling methods. If it is neglected it may develop into the nastier vice of cannibalism. Again, once it starts it is very difficult to stop.
The primary task is to keep the birds occupied. Assuming your hens are well housed with adequate space, this can be done by scattering straw or feed over the ground for them to scratch around.
BROODINESS
This is a natural, maternal instinct that can cause decreased egg production. Broody hens occupy the nest for extended periods of time, thereby preventing other hens
from laying. Even during the night broody hens tend to remain on the nest rather than roosting with other hens on the perch.
Other signs of broodiness include the ruffling of feathers, aggressiveness when approached on the nest and making a characteristic clucking noise. Broody hens will continue to lay a clutch of 4 to 6 eggs before they stop laying. It is important to act prior to the hen laying this clutch of eggs to avoid the bird going out of lay.
Broody hens should be removed to separate wire coops. There, provided with sufficient feed and water, they should be cured within 3-4 days after which they can be returned to the flock. Keep a close watch for the next few days, as they may lapse back to being broody. Repeat the above isolation treatment if they do.
POULTRY EQUIPMENT
A range of home poultry equipment is available from most produce stores. Most stores have a range of metal feeders to suit all types and numbers of birds kept. These range from small round feeders suitable for an aviculturalist to large 15kg feeders for poultry. Plastic drinkers reduce water contamination and provide visible water levels.
For further information on poultry equipment, contact your local produce store and discuss your particular requirements.
FEEDING LAYING HENS
Layers are omnivores, meaning it is in their nature to consume meat and vegetable material. In the wild this would consist of insects, worms, carcasses, seeds and other plant material. Layers will not survive on vegetable scraps alone. To achieve good health, well-being and egg production, the laying hen must receive a balanced diet.
1. Water
Ample, cool, clean water should always be available as this is essential for maximum egg production. If a hen has to do without water for even a short time, her comb may turn a blue-black colour and she will cease to lay. In hot weather, a lack of water for even a few hours can be fatal. Although actual consumption depends on the size of bird, level of egg production, season and type of drinker used, the following may be used as a guide for birds of various ages:
DAILY WATER CONSUMPTION GUIDE
Age (Weeks) Litres (10 Birds)
1 0.2
5 1.0
15 2.3
20 2.6
25 4.0
30 5.0
Saline water can be a cause of poor shell quality and wet manure. To check the suitability of your water supply, contact your State Department of Agriculture or Primary Industries or a recognised analytical laboratory.
Note: In extremely hot weather a good rule to follow is to provide at least three times the usual water allowance.
2. Protein and energy
Birds require an appropriate balance of protein and energy to support growth, egg production, daily functions and overall health. Barastoc laying hen feeds (see product guide) have been formulated to ensure that the requirements for these nutrients are met.
3. Vitamins and minerals
Barastoc laying hen feeds (see product guide) are supplemented with vitamins and minerals to support egg production, essential body functions and resistance to disease.
4. Coarse sources of calcium
Calcium is required for strong bones and good quality eggshells. Barastoc laying hen feeds (see product guide) contain sufficient calcium to satisfy your hens’ needs. Hens generally lay down egg shells during the night. It can be beneficial to also offer coarse sources of calcium such as shell grit or limestone chips. These provide a sustained slow-release of calcium and allow for the selection of extra calcium by hens.
5. Hard grit
Hens use small insoluble stones to grind feed in the gizzard. They require grit when being fed coarse grains such as wheat or other feedstuffs where grinding is necessary for digestion. Grit is generally described as small insoluble stones of approximately 3mm (1/8”) in diameter.
6. Green feed and scraps
Green feeds and scraps are a source of vitamins and can contribute carotenoid pigments for yolk colour. Hens enjoy grazing and picking over scraps and whilst these can contribute to their diet, they can also be very low in nutrients. If too much poor quality forage or scraps are fed too often in place of a balanced ration, egg production and hen health can suffer.
Care should be taken to avoid access to mouldy or “off ” feed such as old damp stored grain or mouldy bread. These may contain toxins that can affect the health and performance of laying hens. The practice of wetting pellets is unnecessary and potentially harmful. Milk should not be added to feedstuffs due to the risk of promoting bacterial growth.
DOES IT PAY TO KEEP YOUR OWN LAYING HENS?
When properly fed and cared for, hens in a home flock situation (commercial hybrids) can lay in excess of 20 dozen (240) eggs per year. During that time the laying hen will eat approximately 47kg of feed.
By calculating the annual cost of feed, housing, equipment, health care and replacement birds you can then establish how much it costs to produce your own eggs.
Obviously the pleasure of keeping hens cannot be measured in dollars and cents, particularly when it is a family activity. Most importantly, you can’t beat home-grown, fresh eggs!
MORE INFORMATION
Australian Egg Corporation Limited, www.aecl.org
Australian Government Department of Agriculture, Fisheries and Forestry,
www.affa.gov.au
Australian Veterinary Poultry Association, www.jcu.edu.au/school/bms/avpa/
“A Model Code of Practice for the Welfare of Animals, Domestic Poultry in Australia”.
Vaccines – Intervet Australia Pty Limited. Ph: 1800 033 461
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
The contribution of expertise by Dr. Peter Scott (Scolexia Animal & Avian Health Veterinary Consultancy) is greatly appreciated.
8th Edition – Barastoc Chook Book. Printed July 2010. Content may change between editions according to changes in products, legislation, and codes of practice. Contact Ridley Sales & Support on
1300 666 657 to ensure you have the most recent edition of the Barastoc Chook Book.

The Domestic Hen – Health & Pests

Robert Siddle — Thu, 02 Feb 2012 08:19:26 +0000

HEALTH
Maintaining a productive and healthy flock must be the main objective of every poultry keeper. With proper management, the incidence of disease and other problems is lessened.
COCCIDIOSIS
Coccidiosis is caused by an intestinal parasite. It generally occurs because of damp ground or litter in the hen house which encourages the survival and maturation of the oocyst – the infectious stage of the coccidiosis life cycle.
There are two main types: Caecal Coccidiosis usually affects young pullets up to 8 weeks of age and Intestinal Coccidiosis is more likely to occur in pullets from 8 to 12 weeks of age.
Both types of coccidiosis can cause significant mortalities and chronic ill thrift in a percentage of the survivors, and hence a loss of flock uniformity. Signs that pullets are affected by clinical coccidiosis include mortalities, huddling, ruffled feathers, depression and blood in the droppings (faeces).
Losses can be significant unless the affected birds are treated appropriately. Because there are a number of different species of poultry coccidia, pullets can experience repeated cases of coccidiosis under poor husbandry conditions.
Beyond point of lay, birds will generally have developed an immunity to coccidia. Given the prevalence of coccidiosis, an anticoccidial feed additive has been included in Barastoc Pullet Starter and Barastoc Pullet Grower to help protect young birds when they’re most vulnerable.
If further control measures are required, be sure to seek advice from a veterinarian and always ensure that any additional medications are compatible with in-feed additives.
WORMS
The large roundworm (Ascaridia spp.) is the most likely to cause trouble in the backyard or free range flock. The adult worm lives in the intestine where it lays large numbers of eggs which are excreted in the birds’ droppings.
These eggs are then picked up by other birds when feeding or scratching for food, and so the infection spreads. A notable feature of roundworm eggs is that they can remain viable on the ground for very long periods, particularly in damp, shaded areas. The symptoms of heavy roundworm infestation are wasting, loss of condition and reduced egg production.
Poultry housed under barn or free range conditions are also commonly infested with other types of worms including the intestinal worm (Capillaria spp.), caecal worm (Heterakis spp.) and tapeworms (Raillientina spp. and Davainea spp.). The caecal worm plays a role as an intermediate host in the poultry disease, Blackhead. To control tapeworm where possible, there is a need to control their intermediate hosts – beetles, ants, snails and slugs.
EXTERNAL PARASITES
External parasitic infestation such as ticks, lice and mites causes undue irritation and stress to your birds, which can result in a severe drop in egg production. Although it is unlikely you’ll be able to eliminate parasites completely, they can be kept to a minimum by sound management practices.
MINIMISING INTERNAL AND EXTERNAL PARASITES
Damp conditions promote the build up of internal parasites in the flock. Control dampness by attending to leaky drinkers or taps and avoid spillage when water is supplied by hand. Ensure that open areas are well drained and that rainwater cannot enter housing. Remove damp litter or soil and replace with clean, new material and fill in depressions.
For maximum productivity, flocks should be replaced on an “all-in-all out” basis to break the life cycle of internal and external parasites. Ideally, young pullets should be raised apart from older hens and on fresh ground that has not been used by older birds for at least 6 months.
Before introducing new birds to the hen house, all old litter material should be removed and the house should be washed down with a detergent and then sanitised with an approved sanitiser for poultry houses. Ideally, to control external parasites and litter beetles the house should also be treated with an approved insecticide.
Attention should also be paid to cleaning and sanitising nest boxes, drinkers and feeders and any maintenance required undertaken before placement of the birds. Regarding use of medications and other treatments, be sure always to follow instructions and seek Veterinary advice when required.
VIRAL AND BACTERIAL INFECTIONS
Birds are prone to a number of viral and bacterial infections. Some cause minor effects to health and productivity whilst others can result in a high level of mortality or potentially threaten the poultry industry in Australia.
For poultry flocks above a certain size (around 500 to 1,000) it is compulsory in a number of Australian states to vaccinate your layers for Newcastle disease virus
Check with your Department of Agriculture or Primary Industries for advice. It is vital that you report to your local government department or Veterinarian any unusual mortalities or clinical signs of disease in your poultry flock. Ask your bird supplier about their vaccination schedule and contact your Veterinarian to discuss any concerns you may have regarding the health of your flock.

The Domestic Hen – Which Breed and Housing

Robert Siddle — Sat, 07 Jan 2012 03:58:20 +0000

WHAT TO BUY
The best commercial hybrids have the genetic potential to lay over 300 eggs per hen per year under ideal conditions (i.e. ISA Brown, Hi-sex Brown, Hyline Brown). More traditional brown-egg laying strains include the Black Cross (Australorp/New Hampshire) and the Red Cross (Rhode Island/New Hampshire).
For white eggs the traditional cross is the White Leghorn/New Hampshire. For maximum egg production, pullets should be purchased to reach point of lay in September (around 17 weeks of age) and lay right through to the following September when their replacement flock will begin to lay.
Replacement birds should be purchased from a reputable source, either a commercial hatchery or a recognised breeder. Usually the classified section of rural newspapers will have advertisements for poultry detailing available breeds and prices.
REPLACING YOUR FLOCK
Don’t keep old hens! For maximum production, you should replace your flock when birds reach 75 weeks of age. Beyond this age, the rate of lay is much lower, and egg shell and albumen quality will be poor.
REARING OF YOUNG CHICKENS AND PULLETS
Rearing chickens from day-old requires husbandry skill, time and proper equipment. Attention to detail is required to avoidhigh mortality, ill-thrift and poor lifelong performance. If this is considered to be too daunting, obtaining point-of-lay pullets instead of chickens remains a good option.
Before the chickens arrive, all manure and litter from the previous flock must be removed and the enclosure scrubbed thoroughly with detergent and sprayed with a sanitiser approved for use in poultry houses.
Dirt floors must receive special attention. The objective is to minimise contamination of the environment with bacteria, viruses
and parasites. Day-old pullets obtained from the supplier should be vaccinated against Marek’s Disease and Infectious Bronchitis Virus. To contact a vaccine supplier please see the “More Information” section in this booklet.
Protection from predators such as rats and cats is essential. Day-old chicks should be reared for at least the first 3 weeks inside a draught-free enclosure, on clean, dry litter material (such as wood shavings or rice hulls), with a heat lamp or heater positioned so that the temperature at the level of the litter is 32°C to 35°C.
It is essential that the day-old chicks can easily access fresh water. A balanced feed of appropriate size, such as Barastoc Pullet Starter, should be provided in feeders. By scattering feed on paper around the feeders and drinking points for the first 24 to 48 hours, the young chickens will more readily learn to gain access to feed and water.
Decrease temperature gradually, aiming to reach about 21°C to 24°C at 3 to 4 weeks of age. Once birds are fully feathered, at around 5 to 6 weeks of age, they can tolerate lower temperatures.
Significant fluctuations in temperature from day to night should be avoided. Extreme high temperatures should also be avoided as this may lead to mortalities and poor performance. Roof sprays or internal shed misters can be of assistance.
For optimal egg production and egg quality, pullets should be vaccinated and treated as recommended by the supplying hatchery.
For example, a standard body weight-per age-chart is useful to gauge progress of your young flock. Contact your commercial hatchery for further details.
POULTRY HOUSING

It is important to provide all poultry with protection against inclement weather and direct sunlight. The house must be ventilated, however it must also provide shelter from draughts and very hot winds. Exclusion of foxes and other predators is essential.

Convenient access to fresh water is important. If using surface water (dam, river, irrigation) it must be sanitised to be suitable for consumption by domestic poultry. This is to reduce the risk of infection with serious emergency poultry diseases (i.e. Avian Influenza) from water contaminated by wild birds, particularly waterfowl. For more information, contact your State Department of Agriculture or Primary Industries.
To achieve optimal egg production from the modern laying hen, it will be necessary to provide lights to ensure a minimum of 15 hours of light per day – particularly for flocks reaching point of lay in autumn, when natural day length is decreasing. If you wish to control lighting, safe access to electricity is important.
To determine the appropriate size of a hen house, allow approximately 0.37 square metres (4 sq.ft.) of floor space per bird. Thus a 20 bird flock would require a floor area of at least 7.4 square metres (10 ft. x 8 ft. or 80 sq.ft.).
Local councils may have restrictions on the keeping of poultry. It is wise to enquire about your local council requirements. A Model Code of Practice for the Welfare of Animals, Domestic Poultry in Australia also regulates poultry housing. This is available from your State Department of Agriculture or Department of Primary Industries.
You should make yourself familiar with these requirements.
PERCHES
Poultry have a natural tendency to perch. Without perches they will perch on anything available including nests, feeders and, if not too high, the top of the fence.
At night, and without perches, the birds will crowd into a corner of the hen house and soon a hard, caked patch of manure will form.
Additionally, the hens’ claws and feathers will get dirty and caked with droppings which will be transferred to the nests and subsequently to any eggs laid therein.
By providing perches for roosting, your eggs will be much cleaner and your hens less “flighty”. The average hen needs approximately 250mm (10 inches) of perch space. Additionally, it needs to be within a comfortable jumping height. In general, 600mm (2 feet) will suffice.
NESTS

Nests need to be comfortable and fairly dark to ensure seclusion from the rest of the hen house. The amount of nesting space per flock is again dependent on flock size. As a rule, 6 layers require approximately 1 square metre (9 sq.ft.) of nesting space.
Nesting material can be of straw and wood shavings and should be at least 100mm (4 inches) deep.
Shallow nests cause fighting and encourage feather picking and cannibalism. Keep nests clean to avoid soiling the eggs.
Hens can be trained not to sleep in nests by providing perches and excluding them from the nests in the evening. This will also reduce the incidence of broodiness amongst the hens. Reopen the nest when they are asleep and after a week or two the birds will have formed a roosting habit, greatly reducing the amount of droppings in the nests.
Collect eggs twice a day to ensure freshness and minimise the opportunity for egg eating.

Assistance Dogs Australia and PETstock sponsorship program

Robert Siddle — Wed, 04 Jan 2012 07:14:27 +0000

Assistance Dogs and PETstock South Melbourne Sponsorship
Ever thought of sponsoring a puppy that would help people with certain disabilities?

We did and currently sponsor Jaxon who is 10 months old.

We feel that this has been so successful that we have decided to sponsor another puppy but need someone to assist us.

PETstock South Melbourne would provide everything you need at no cost to you, Vet’s bills, food, toys, equipment etc.

What you would need to do is care for the puppy and help with his training.

One thing that stops many people from sponsoring a puppy is committing the time and also what happens when you want to go away.

Well, we would also assist with that.

Just talk to us and we can discuss whether this arrangement would work for you.

Regards
Robert Siddle
Director